I am here to discuss my obsession
A review of some skincare products
I have gotten into the habit of cutting my material necessities down to the bare minimum when I travel, and while this has eased the load on my (literal) back, the first thing to suffer as a result of this is my face. I am especially prone to fits of acne that remain stubbornly on my face for weeks, and my skin tends to reject most scented products, for a multitude of reasons. Skincare has always been a major pain point for me, but in retaliation, I have invested more money than I care to admit into taking care of my face. I’ve taken the liberty of counting the products I’ve tried, and I’ve compiled my thoughts on them below. If your skin is anything like mine, maybe this review will help you find some new products. It is indeed a hefty list: read at your own risk. I’ll include a tl;dr just above the full review.
I included almost all the products I’ve tried because I think it’s important to know what didn’t work just as much as what did. If I’m going to write a review on skincare, I want there at least there to be some base-level comparison metrics for the products. There’s simply no point in giving every product a 5/5. For reference, though, a 5/5 in my book is a product with ZERO complications and lives in an ideal world that does not exist. Anything above a 4/5 is a product I’d probably recommend strongly to a friend. If it’s above a 3/5, I probably still liked it and would recommend it, but I’ve also found products that work better. A 2/5 is essentially a product that adds mostly time to my routine. A 1/5 would be a product that had adverse effects on my body and soul. To be clear, you should take my ratings with a grain of salt; my skin has many specific quirks and needs.
tl;dr
- The most important components in my skincare routine were the cleanser and toner; I didn’t feel the other steps were too necessary unless I had specific needs I wanted to address
- My favorite products are the Shiseido Clarifying Cleansing Foam, I’m From Rice Toner, and Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask
- I have learned that a lot of products are either for pore/acne treatment or they’re soothing; a product that is good for one is typically not good for the other
- Buying skincare sampler sets helped me decide what kind of products I like without needing to spend egregious amounts of money (Costco offers them!)
Face cleanser
COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser (4/5)
This is the cleanser that I am currently using. It’s a clear, gel-like cleanser that has almost no scent and is great for sensitive skin. It lathers up into something kind of akin to foam, but it doesn’t quite reach the full level of foaminess you can expect from a foam cleanser. I think the price point on this is very reasonable as well.
Banila Co Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm (4.5/5)
This is the first cleansing balm and oil-based cleanser I’ve tried. It’s currently still in my skincare rotation, and I’m liking it a lot. Oil-based cleansers are typically for double-cleansing routines, which just means that you cleanse your face with something like this to remove surface-level impurities first, such as makeup or sebum, then wash again with a water-based cleanser to remove other impurities. If your face is oily or you wear makeup, double-cleansing is often a good step to add to your routine. You can read more about what double-cleansing is and why people do it here. I’ve found that I don’t always need to use this, especially in the winter when my face isn’t really producing as much oil and the weather can be quite dry. However, the times I have used it, my face always feels incredibly purified from inside to out. This balm is also hypoallergenic, which is a really nice added feature. It’s my impression from other reviews that this cleansing balm and the Then I Met You Cleansing Balm are some of the most popular in the market.
Shiseido Clarifying Cleansing Foam (4.5/5)
This is the tried and true cleanser of the entire squad. I have used this Shiseido cleanser intermittently over the past 4 or 5 years, and I still use it when I’m not trying new products. This is one of those “a little goes a long way” cleansers because you can take less than a pea-sized amount and lather it into enough foam to wash your entire face. It’s expensive, that’s for sure, but it removes oil from my skin wonderfully and my face feels very clean and refreshed afterward. This also has the distinctive Shiseido scent, but it’s very, very subtle and doesn’t cause any adverse reactions for me.
PureMay Soft Serum Cleanser (3/5)
I got this cleanser from Costco if you’ll believe it. In the past few years, Costco has started doing Korean skincare sets, and a while back I got my hands on this kit called The Most Essentials. This cleanser was just, well, good. It has a slight scent to it, but nothing to irritate sensitive skin, and it had very tiny exfoliating grains in it. It came in a little tub that made it difficult to use sometimes. For the most part, I felt pretty neutral about it, but since I got in the skincare set, it came at a great value.
Saturday Skin rise + shine Gentle Cleanser (3/5)
Like the PureMay, this one does the job. It feels good, and I also got it at a great value with the Korean Beauty Facial Boutique set from Costco. I don’t think this brought my acne down so much as it just prevented it from getting worse. I think that Saturday Skin has better and more popular products in their line.
Clean&Clear benzoyl peroxide Acne Cleanser (3.5/5)
I didn’t realize this product was discontinued until I was looking for a link for it on Clean&Clear’s website, but it seems a lot of other retailers, including Amazon, still sell this. I used this cleanser a lot in my early days of fighting acne, around my middle to high school transition. My dermatologist recommended this because it has 10% benzoyl peroxide as the main active ingredient, whereas the main ingredient in most other major acne-fighting face cleansers had salicylic acid. Benzoyl peroxide is definitely a lot stronger than salicylic acid, but it can also be harsher. Weather conditions in Michigan often meant that using this cleanser would also dry out my skin. I alternated this 10% with 5% benzoyl peroxide face cleanser from Clean&Clear as well, which was essentially the same but also had some small exfoliating beads in it as well, but I couldn’t find that one on the Clean&Clear website. If anyone finds a link, let me know.
Toner
Facial toner is the most crucial step in my skincare routine and the one I’ve found to have the most impact on my acne. I apply toner twice a day immediately after washing my face, either with a cotton pad or just my hands. A small word on cotton pads: I prefer to use cotton pads for toner because you can swipe away any leftover bits of dust or dead skin as you’re applying, but it can also be a little wasteful because a good amount of the product can get absorbed into the pad. Sometimes I use the cotton pads as “face masks” if I’m not doing anything else after toner in my routine.
PureMay Soft Serum Toner (4.75/5)
This is the most elusive product I’ve used in this entire list. This also came with the The Most Essentials set, but unlike its face cleanser counterpart, this toner was one of the best products I have used in my life. I’m docking .25 points almost purely because I’m salty that I can’t find it domestically anymore. They’ve changed the packaging to a spray-type bottle, but I think I like it more as a pour bottle.
Some By Mi AHA-BHA-PHA 30Days Miracle Toner (3.75/5)
This toner has everything in it, and it clears up acne overnight. When I first started using it, I applied it once every morning and night, but during periods when my skin was really sensitive, I noticed that this would sting a bit after application. This isn’t particular to this toner, but if you have microabrasions or your skin is broken in any areas, strong products like these can cause irritation. Still, while it didn’t feel as smooth and “glowy” as the PureMay toner, this has been one of the most effective toners I’ve used. These days I only use this toner when my skin breaks out more severely.
I’m From Rice Toner (4.5/5)
This is the toner that is currently in my rotation. I like this one because its main ingredients aren’t the AHA and BHA you find in most toners, but rather some rice-based extract that has a similar function. It feels a lot more gentle going on, and it has a bit more of a creamy feel than other toners. This toner has two layers, a thicker sediment-like layer that floats to the top and a more liquid rice water layer that comprises the majority of the bottle. You shake before using, kind of like vinaigrettes. I think this is the toner I may stick with long term because it has the right balance of product and soothing properties to it.
Nature Republic Chamomile Soothing & Calming Toner (2/5)
I bought this toner on a random weekend excursion in New York because there was a deal going on at one of the Nature Republic stores. To be honest, I haven’t used this toner much, and that’s mostly because this is primarily a soothing toner. I wouldn’t say the toner smells exactly like chamomile, and it doesn’t have much of an effect on my skin. For redness, however, I think this works well in the nighttime routine.
Klairs Supple Preparation Unscented Toner (2.5/5)
Klairs is known for making really gentle products that are moisturizing and good for the skin. Much like the Nature Republic, I didn’t think this toner helped much with my acne, but I did think it was great to add moisture to the skin. The toner honestly felt more like a serum; it has a goopier texture than the rest of them. The particular type of toner I purchased is also specifically for sensitive skin, so there’s no fragrance at all. I used to alternate this one with the Some by Mi toner to “balance” out their effects.
Glow Recipe PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner (2.75/5)
This is also a goopy toner. I bought this as a part of the Fruit Babies Bestsellers kit, whose contents have now changed slightly but are, for the most part, the same as the original set I purchased. I felt like I was risking a lot by trying some of Glow Recipe’s products, but surprisingly they all passed the test. It smells a bit like jolly rancher watermelon, but it is a little sticky and thick, which makes it feel a bit heavy to apply other products on top after this layer. I think this can be used as more of an all-in-one toner or moisturizer, but I also have to say that this didn’t do much more for me on the acne end. It definitely wasn’t making my acne worse, but I don’t think I saw much improvement in my time using this.
COSRX Full-Fit Propolis Synergy Toner (3/5)
This toner smells a bit honey-like and is a very thin toner. I used most of the small sampler bottle I received in the Costco k-beauty set, and I quite liked how it felt on my skin; it never stung my face and felt really light. I don’t think my skin was the intended recipient of this product, however, as I need something a bit stronger to attack the blackheads and acne that plague my face.
Serum
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% (3.75/5)
Many acne-treating toners and serums use niacinamide as the active ingredient. The Ordinary products always feel so fun for me to use because they come in these glass bottles with droppers. I don’t know if that’s the most efficient way for skincare on the go, but they look fancy. This serum is advertised as pore-reducing, but it’s really also for acne. I did closely observe its effects over the first week or so of only using this product, though, and I will say that it definitely reduced the appearance of blackheads on my nose in the mornings. By the end of the day my blackheads looked like they were starting to reappear, but it’s possible that that’s just due to the daily wear-and-tear of everyday life.
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (2.5/5)
I purchased this serum in tandem with the niacinamide because most of my friends using The Ordinary products owned these two in particular. I used this one a lot less than the niacinamide, however. Hyaluronic acid is supposed to have a smoothing and moisturizing effect, but I think other serums paired with a good toner make this product unnecessary for me.
Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Drops (2.5/5)
This serum is a lot weaker than The Ordinary’s serums, but it definitely smells better. I will say, though, that using one Glow Recipe product in your routine really masks or interferes with the rest of the products. I felt that I couldn’t use any other scented products that didn’t match the “fruity” scent with them because they might interact to make some third weird smell.
Glow Recipe Plum Pump Hyaluronic Serum (2/5)
I started using this serum as a moisturizer after my Glow Recipe moisturizer ran it. It’s a little thick and sticky, much like the other Glow Recipe products. I wouldn’t call this a necessary step in the routine unless your skin is the very dry type.
COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence (?/5)
Apparently, this snail mucin is famous for its anti-aging properties. This is a very sticky serum that makes your face feel a bit heavy afterward. While I think you technically can use this twice a day, if you’re going to use it once at night before bedtime would be the right time to. I think this starts to play a larger role once you want to incorporate a skin-firming element into your skincare routine. For now, I’m saving mine because I feel that my skin doesn’t need this yet.
Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Serum (2/5)
Similar to the Klairs toner, this serum feels a bit stickier and heavy on the skin. I tried to use this together with the toner when I first received it, but together they felt a bit too heavy. I would use this as a standalone; no toner or additional moisturizer required.
Moisturizer / Cream
I am typically happy to use a toner + serum combo as my moisturizer most months, but on occasion, I do feel that I need a little added something to the routine.
Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream (3.25/5)
I did a lot of research on good moisturizers before buying this, and I was actually pretty surprised that this one came so recommended. Although I haven’t had super strong feelings about the toner and serum I’ve tried, I am enjoying this one so far. It’s not as moisturizing as I expected, but it does have a light and non-sticky application. I use this after I feel like my skin is a little red at the end of the day before I go to sleep and it seems like it does help to repair it a little.
Innisfree Green Tea Soothing Cream (3.5/5)
This cream has a green tea scent and otherwise feels pretty similar to the Klairs calming cream. I liked it a little more just because I thought it was a little more hydrating than the Klairs, but just marginally. It was also a little less thick than the Klairs, so it absorbed into the skin a little better and added a barely noticeable glowy finish.
E Nature Birch Juice Hydro Cream (3/5)
Not a lot of places carry this cream anymore, and since then it seems the packaging has also changed. I got this in the K-Beauty Costco set and managed to use the entire sampler tub I received, so no major complaints here. This was a solid moisturizer.
Lip
My lips tend to get chapped very easily, and I’ve been through a multitude of chapsticks and lip balms throughout my life: Burt’s Bees, Chapstick, Carmex, eos, and more (this was before I realized most lip balms actually dry out your lips more and some are actually addictive, so here’s your warning if you didn’t know that!) I mostly used Vaseline after the debacles that resulted from previous experiences, and that has worked pretty well for me. In the past year, however, I have discovered the lip care game changers: the Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask and the Lip Glowy Balm. I think these have done a lot to improve the texture and moisture in my lips.
The Laneige sleep lip mask is the better of the two. It is thicker and comes in a little pot with a spatula. Application on the go can be difficult, then, due to hygienic difficulties with sticking your fingers in the tub, but it’s meant to be used at night, so just use clean fingers or the spatula. This lip mask is very thick, and a little goes a very long way. Before I got the lip balm this also doubled as a balm during the day; I just used the smallest possible amount of the product before heading out. Its effects are best noticed overnight, though, when there are no outside irritants or lip moving to impede progress.
The lip balm is also very good and comes in a little tube. It feels very similar to the lip mask but is slightly thinner. I bought the peach because I was worried about heavy tinting, but neither products actually have actual color-altering effects.
Sunscreen
To be frank with you, I have not used much facial sunscreen in my life. My body eagerly awaits the negative aftereffects of this that I will surely experience within the upcoming 5 to 10 years, but my mind begs to differ. I find sunscreens to be counterproductive towards acne care, and as a college student I spend most of my days indoors, so I haven’t felt that I’ve needed it much. I have tried a matte La Roche-Posay sunscreen that I felt that despite it being oil-free it was a bit heavy and greasy on my skin.
So there you have it. If you made it to the end, thanks for reading. As this article continued to elongate it started to seem less and less useful, so perhaps the tl;dr is really all you need. Nevertheless, I think that this has also been a helpful logging exercise for me.
